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T he yellow postal bus lurches up the narrow, dead-end road that winds through Valle Onsernone, blasting its horn in warning as it rounds one cliff-hugging hairpin turn after. Just a flimsy-looking guardrail separates us from the yawning ravine.

Heart somewhere in my throat, I wonder how ,ife previous buses have tumbled over it into the churning Isorno River. For the record, the answer is none — this is Switzerlandafter all.

Just 25 minutes ago I was in the manicured lakeside resort of Locarno, watching wealthy holidaymakers clink Aperol spritzes. To the south stand a handful of solitary stone huts, accessible only on foot. This rugged stillness brought artists and writers such as Max Ernst and Kurt Tucholksy to this corner of Ticino, in southern Switzerland, in the s.

Mike was dismayed to find half-empty villages, closed schoolhouses and switzerland looking for new life ageing population that had dwindled to from a 19th-century high of 4, Starting, but definitely not ending, with a hostel.

Under his direction, Villa Edera transformed from prison-like municipal student accommodation to a cheery backpacker hub, with a fridge full of local craft beer and a bright-yellow common area lined with upcycled antiques.

On his lead, I end up in a genteel hamlet a few miles to the west called Berzona, famous as the final residence of Swiss playwright Max Frisch. Before the industrial revolution, nearly every man, woman and how gay guys in Onsernone was involved in the switzerland looking for new life, nfw harvesting rye from terraces carved into the steep mountainsides, softening and braiding the straw, or carrying the products on muleback to the market town of Intragna.

Today, the old switzerland looking for new life path is a gentle hiking trail, and Blumer and her colleagues make their hats, bags and keychains out of pre-plaited rice straw bought from a Florence wholesaler.

We tried: But she switzerland looking for new life begun growing rye for another Pagliarte product: The subtly sweet result is a hit with Swiss foodies — Garbani estimates he ships 10 tonnes a year to restaurants and supermarkets.

Until recently, the mill and Pagliarte received state support as part of a decade-in-the-making plan to turn Valle Onsernone and its environs into a national park — which would have been only the second in Switzerland.

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The project would have injected millions into the local economy and infrastructure, but many here saw it as an unnecessary switzerland looking for new life — among them the lesbian dating a married woman who moved here precisely to escape such authority, and old-timers afraid of losing the freedom to hunt and protect their livestock from wolves.

In Juneresidents voted down the park by a slim margin, leaving Blumer and Garbani on their own and the valley bitterly divided.

His neighbours, who own a flock of free-grazing sheep, celebrated with fireworks. Which is why, though disheartened by the park vote, Mike at the hostel sees a silver lining. Which people would those be?

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More hardcore self-searchers flock to the hut atop Alpe Salei, a 1,metre peak reachable by cable car from Vergeletto. Init was taken over by a thirtysomething Italian couple who met at a Zen monastery and now host yoga and tai chi retreats. One plan that did come to fruition was a co-working space on the ground floor of Casa Schira, his hostel hot peoples Loco, to be opened next year.

Food porn, too, is scarce: At one point Keller turns on his laptop. Onsernone evangelist that he is, Keller would still prefer some things about his valley stay secret.

For. Buses run every hours, so plan your departure with Swiss precision or consider renting a car. Looking for a holiday with a difference?

Browse Guardian Holidays to see a range of fantastic trips. Italy and Switzerland map This rugged stillness brought artists and swizterland such as Max Ernst and Kurt Tucholksy to this corner of Ticino, in southern Switzerland, in the s.

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Topics Switzerland holidays. Hostels Backpacking holidays Walking holidays Europe holidays features.

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